Nickel Adjustable Round Cup Concealed Cabinet Hinge F879

F879 Nickel Adjustable Concealed Cup Hinge With A Round Cup, An Adjustable Arm And A Ribbed Tail

This listing is written from the six photographs on this page, and what they show is a concealed cabinet hinge in bright nickel and a three-way adjustable design: a round cup with a recessed centre and a flange carrying two countersunk fixing holes, an arm with adjustment screws around a rectangular window, a dark strap at the knuckle, and a closed tail with a ribbed end face. The mounting plate is a two-wing part with round holes, and one frame shows the hinge disassembled into its cup-and-arm half and its plate half.

One point is stated plainly rather than implied: no damper piston and no coil spring are visible in any of the six staged photographs, and the folder did not carry a written specification with the hinge. This page therefore does not call the hinge soft close. The three-way adjustment is real in the sense that the adjustment screws are clearly present on the arm, but the exact travel figures for depth, height and side are read from the drawing, not from these photographs, and a damped closing behaviour, if it is part of the F879 range, will be shown on the drawing and confirmed on the sample before you bore a single door.

What The Photographs In This Listing Do And Do Not Prove

Every structural claim on this page can be pointed at in one of the six frames: the round cup and its flange, the two countersunk holes, the arm and its window, the adjustment screws, the knuckle strap, the ribbed tail, the plate wings, and the two halves shown apart. What no photograph can show is a boring diameter, an overlay, an opening angle, the three-way adjustment travel, a door load limit or a cycle count, so this page carries none of those numbers. They come from the hinge drawing and the test report, issued on request against the exact hinge you are ordering, because a figure borrowed from a similar hinge is the most expensive kind of typo in a workshop.

The staged set also omits, on purpose, seven further photographs of this folder that are different poses of the same fitting but fall outside the six most distinct views kept here, and a video file plus a screenshot that ship in the folder but are not product stills. What remains is six different views of the fitting, and each of the six is used once in the image gallery.

How The Hinge Is Built

The side view with the arm fully extended is the clearest way to read a hinge of this kind: the round cup at one end, the arm running out to the closed ribbed tail, and the two-wing plate where the case fixing sits. Three things about this construction are worth a buyer knowing before the drawing arrives. First, the cup is a round recessed cup with a flange that carries two countersunk fixing holes, and the countersink is what lets the cup screw head sit below the flange surface. Second, the arm is a stamped part with adjustment screws around a rectangular window, and the knuckle is wrapped in a dark strap. Third, the tail is closed and ribbed at the end face, which keeps the linkage inside the body rather than open at the end of the arm.

• Round cup with a recessed centre for seating in a door boring.
• Cup flange carrying two countersunk fixing holes.
• Stamped arm with adjustment screws around a rectangular window.
• Dark strap wrapping the knuckle at the joint.
• Closed tail with a ribbed end face rather than an open fork.
• Two-wing mounting plate with round fixing holes.

The Three-Way Adjustment And What The Screws Do

The adjustment screws on the arm are what make this a three-way adjustable hinge: they let the fitter move the door in depth, in height and side to side after the hinge is fixed, so the door can be squared and the gap made even without taking anything off. That is the whole reason a three-way hinge is specified on a fitted wardrobe or a set of kitchen doors rather than a fixed one. The photographs show the screws and the window they act on; they do not show the travel in millimetres, and that figure comes from the drawing. A buyer who needs the exact depth, height and side travel for their case should take that from the drawing and the sample, because the travel is set by the sleeve and screw thread inside the arm and cannot be read off a photograph.

The practical order of working with the adjustment is to fix the hinge roughly, hang the door, then take up the depth screw until the face is square, work the height until the gap top and bottom is even, and nudge side to side until the door is centred. Each of those moves is a quarter turn or less at a time, and the screw should never be forced past its stop, because over-driving the adjustment sleeve is how an otherwise sound hinge gets a stripped thread.

The Cup And The Door It Sits In

A concealed cup hinge lives in a boring, and on this model the boring is cut for a round cup with a flange, the seat and the hole centres being specific to this cup. If a workshop cuts a boring for a different cup and this hinge is forced into it, the flange will not seat true, the door will sit proud of the case line and the fixing screws will be working against the wrong surface. The boring dimensions come with the quotation drawing for this hinge and the sample hinge is sent so the drill can be set on the buyer's own board.

The two countersunk holes in the flange take the cup fixing screws, and the countersink is what lets the screw head sit below the flange surface so the finished door face is clean. On chipboard and MDF the holding power of those screws depends on the pilot hole and the screw gauge rather than on the hinge, and a cup that has been screwed and unscrewed repeatedly during fitting loses grip long before the metal ever does.

The disassembled view is the one that shows the two halves a hinge is made of: the cup-and-arm half that screws to the door, and the plate half that screws to the case. The two meet at the knuckle, and the ribbed tail at the end of the arm is the closed end of the linkage. Seeing the two halves apart is what tells a buyer this is not a lift off hinge, because the arm does not spring free from the plate by hand; the door comes off by undoing the screws, and that is stated on the drawing as well.

The Mounting Plate And Its Fixings

The plate is the half of the hinge fixed to the case, and on this fitting it is a two-wing part with round holes. Which plate a given order ships with is fixed on the order, and the plate the buyer's case needs is the plate to specify; the drawing shows the plate and its hole centres. A plate that only has round holes gives the fitter less travel to work with than a slotted plate, so a workshop doing a high volume of doors sometimes asks about the slotted option even when the round plate would technically fit, and that choice is one to make against the case construction rather than on this page.

The plate holes carry the case fixing screws, and the countersink and the pilot hole matter as much as on the cup flange. A plate that has been screwed and unscrewed repeatedly while a fitter chases the line loses grip in chipboard, which shows up later as the plate pulling away from the carcass while the hinge itself is still sound, so the drawing lists the fixing specification we would ship with this plate.

How Many Hinges A Door Needs

Hinge count follows door height and door mass, not preference. A tall door hung on two hinges works the upper fixing into a groove over a season, and the first symptom is never the hinge: it is the screw holes. On a wardrobe or cabinet door of this class the practical rule we work to is two hinges up to a modest height, three above that, and an extra hinge at mid height on a tall or heavy door so the middle of the rail is not carrying the twist. The break points depend on the door and the board, so they are agreed against the drawing rather than assumed on a page.

Where the door is a frameless front over a case with a deep overlay, the hinge carries more of the door than it would on a framed door, and the cup fixing has to be trusted completely. That is the application where a sample first, bore second, is the cheapest possible sequence, because the alternative is a shelf of doors bored for the wrong cup.

Where This Hinge Is The Right Call, And Where It Is Not

A nickel finished concealed cup hinge with a round cup, a ribbed tail and a three-way adjustable arm belongs inside furniture: wardrobe and closet doors, kitchen wall and base units, study and hotel casework, and retail joinery that is assembled in a workshop and hung on site. With the door shut the hinge is not visible at all, which is exactly what a concealed hinge is being bought to do. It is the wrong call for a marine locker, a hosing down area, a food processing room or an unventilated external cabinet in a coastal position: the finish is a decorative interior finish rather than a marine barrier, and bright plating always has pinholes at the knuckle where salt and chlorine start. For wet or coastal work we quote a stainless hinge instead, even though it costs more per fitting, because a hinge that corrodes through in one season costs more than the hinge ever did.

Specification Summary

How Each Hinge Batch Is Checked Before Packing

Every hinge batch is sampled on four points before packing. Assembly: the cup screws, the arm screws, the adjustment screws and the plate holes are checked to be present, driven and unstripped, and the knuckle strap is checked to sit square rather than cross threaded. Appearance: the nickel surface is checked for passivation marks, handling scratches and any plating that has pulled at the cup radius, which is the part of the fitting that shows first in a lit wardrobe. Function: each sampled hinge is worked through its full swing by hand and the three adjustment screws are checked to turn freely through their range, so a binding sleeve or a plate that rubs the arm shows up before the carton closes. Packing: carton quantity, inner bag, marking and the model number on the label are checked against the order rather than the previous job, and the documents a buyer needs at their own customs are issued with the proforma.

Who Supplies This Hinge

This hinge is supplied by Guangzhou Gorgeous Intelligent Technology Co., Ltd., a furniture and architectural hardware business whose range covers hinges, drawer slides, handles, stays, legs, castors, locks and the fitting sets that go with them. The company works to export orders: quantities, carton marking, barcodes and shipping documents are agreed before production rather than after it, and a buyer who specifies the plate and the screw type on the order gets those things made, because that is the only specification the factory works from.

Terms Worth Agreeing Before Two Hinges Are Compared

• Cup hinge: a hinge whose door half is a cup sunk into a boring; this page sells a cup hinge, and the cup on this hinge is a round cup with a two-hole flange.
• Three-way adjustable: a hinge whose arm screws let the door be moved in depth, height and side; this hinge carries those screws, and the travel is specified on the drawing.
• Arm: the part of the hinge between cup and plate; two hinges can share a cup and still be different hinges because their arms carry different internals.
• Plate: the half of the hinge fixed to the case; the plate and its holes are part of the hinge specification.
• Overlay: how far a closed door overlaps the case; the plate and the arm together set the overlay, and a drawing shows it for the plate.
• Concealed hinge: a hinge that is not visible with the door shut; that is the whole reason a hinge of this kind is bought.
• Lift off hinge: a hinge whose arm separates from the plate without tools; this hinge has a closed tail, so it is not that kind of hinge.
• Fixing holes: the holes that carry the screws; on this hinge two sit countersunk in the cup flange and the rest sit in the plate wings.
• Drawing: the document that turns a hinge photograph into a hinge specification; without it a hinge cannot be bored, and we send it with the quotation.

Common Hinge Faults And What They Actually Mean

A door that drops over time is almost always a fixing problem rather than a hinge problem. The hinge is the strongest part of that joint; the board it is screwed into is not. In chipboard and MDF the holding power depends on the pilot hole and the screw gauge, and a plate that has been screwed and unscrewed repeatedly while a fitter chases the line loses grip, which shows up later as the plate pulling away from the carcass while the hinge itself is still sound.

A door that will not square up no matter how it is screwed is usually an adjustment question: the door is being held at the wrong overlay for the plate that was fixed, or the adjustment screws are being forced past their stop. The answer is the correct plate for the case, and the adjustment worked gently to position, not a hinge swapped for one nobody has specified. A hinge that feels loose at the knuckle after a season is normally carrying a door heavier than the hinge count assumes, and the fix is another hinge rather than a tighter screw.

How This Hinge Sits In Our Range

Within our own cup hinge range, a buyer choosing a concealed hinge is usually choosing between the cup, the arm and the tail, in that order. The cup sets what the door can be bored for; the arm sets what the hinge does when it closes and how it adjusts; and the tail sets how the linkage is sealed and how the arm is supported. This hinge is specified by all three: a round cup with a two-hole flange, an adjustable arm with a window, and a closed ribbed tail. A buyer comparing it against another hinge should compare the same three, because two hinges can look like the same hinge in a small catalogue image and be different tools at the boring.

It also sits against the damped hinges we supply, and the honest position is the one on the specification table: the photographs of this hinge do not show a damper, so this listing does not claim one. A buyer who needs soft close behaviour should ask for the damped variant of the family, have it confirmed on the drawing, and take a sample to prove the closing behaviour in their own door before the production order is cut.

Questions Buyers Ask About This Hinge

• Is F879 a soft close hinge? The six staged photographs show no damper piston and no coil spring, so this listing does not claim soft close. The closing behaviour is a specification question answered by the drawing and the sample, and we will confirm it in writing before you order.
• Is it really three-way adjustable? The adjustment screws on the arm are clearly visible in the photographs, which is what makes it a three-way adjustable hinge. The exact travel in depth, height and side is a specification figure that comes from the drawing, not from these photographs.
• Is the cup a standard round cup? It is a round cup with a recessed centre and a flange carrying two countersunk fixing holes, visible in the front and upright views. The boring has to be cut for that cup to the drawing.
• Does it fit a standard plate opening? The plate is a two-wing part with round holes, shown across the frames. Specify the plate on the order and the drawing shows the hole centres for it.
• Is the tail lift off? No. The tail is closed and ribbed at the end face, so the arm does not separate from the plate by hand. The door comes off by undoing the screws.
• What is the finish and is it wet area rated? A bright nickel finish, the same colour on cup, arm and plate. It is an interior finish; for wet, hosed or coastal applications we quote a stainless hinge instead.
• Are the fixing screws included? Fixing screws are not supplied as standard unless agreed on the order; the drawing lists the specification we would ship so the screws match the holes in this hinge.

Sign-Off Checklist Before You Order This Hinge

• Door material confirmed as a panel material that can be bored to the drawing for this hinge.
• Door height and mass confirmed against the hinge count, with an added hinge at mid height on tall doors.
• Cup boring confirmed from the drawing for this round cup, not from a previous different cup hinge.
• Three-way adjustment travel (depth, height, side) confirmed from the drawing against the case.
• Plate confirmed against the case construction and the fixing method.
• Overlay requirement confirmed so the correct plate is ordered for the door gap.
• Closing behaviour requirement confirmed in writing against the drawing and a sample, since it is not visible in the photographs.
• Screw specification agreed separately, since fixings are not supplied as standard.
• Environment confirmed as dry or moderately humid; wet, hosed and coastal work is outside this finish.
• Sample tested in the buyer's own board before the production order is cut.

Ordering

Send the model number F879 with the quantity, the destination port and the carton marking you need. Samples are available before a production order so the hinge can be bored and hung in your own board, which is the fastest way for both sides to agree that the boring, the adjustment, the plate and the closing behaviour are right. The drawing, the boring dimension sheet and whatever test documentation we hold for this hinge model are issued on request, and delivery and payment terms are agreed order by order on the proforma rather than assumed from a previous order.